Our Dog

Dog fanciers all over the world will accept that the study of the DOG is a very good pursuit. The enthusiastic and average fancier today have such predilection about the breed that they possess for example like that of a Dobermann or the Chihuahua, it is considered  a breed unique among all other breeds of dogs – for them other breeds may not even exist. 

Though it is true  to a great extent that such intense enthusiasm is a good thing for any breed for without this many breeds would not have attained such stupendous development  which has been achieved through careful, scientific and artificial selection.

On the other hand such uncontrolled breed loyalty can lead to an impasse where we tend to forget that our DOG is just as any other Dog, perhaps only a little different in a superficial way but fundamentally the same as all the rest. Therefore by too close application to a particular breed, we fail to fully appreciate the DOG as an animal,

Which is most important, as it is basic. Canine study is of 2 kinds (1) Topographical, which means the surface, which is the appearance or the characterization of a breed,  (2) Skeletal, which is the working parts beneath the surface together with the mechanical laws governing them.

The DOG BREEDER

The breeders of these pure pedigreed dogs are the people who help in producing these dogs which represent their standard in respect of topographical , skeletal and temperamental soundness obviously they ought to be  more expensive than the ones that are not. We shall now try to explore little bit about the insight of a dog breeder. 

A HORSE BREEDER once told me, “A good mare gives more than half to her foal.” This was a knowledgeable man, a long-time successful breeder.

This is as true for the brood bitch as it is for the mare. Man, the breeder of record, will assume the responsibility only at some time after the actual birth, and if that responsibility must be taken very early in the young life, it is very possible that no matter how diligent the care, it shall never provide what could have been derived from a healthy, temperamentally sound dam, providing from her own body the perfect diet, warmth and security. 

Laziness and weakness in the whelping box, enough to make the surgical birth, Caesarian section, necessary, and irresponsible maternal attitudes seem to be inherited. A bitch puppy, whelped naturally in peaceful, comfortable surroundings, given the proper care by her dam from the first anxious lick seems also to be “programmed” for performance of the same duties when her turn comes.

There is a bonus benefit. Inherent constitutional vigor carries with it in both the male and the female the ability to resist infection, disease and even severe parasitical infestation. The animal will flesh out and grow glossy coated, with only a good maintenance diet, not requiring a superfluity of dietary supplements as it is able to extract the maximum available in the food ingested. It will adjust readily to extremes of heat and cold, thus it will require less artificial heating cooling in the kennel. This in turn reduces chances of illness from changes of weather and temperature in the course of shipping and traveling to the shows. This healthy animal will cost you a lot less in time and money to keep in top condition and may even spare you the heartache of any early demise with possible disruption of carefully formulated breeding plans. 

So, if your bitch is beautiful AND healthy, strong and natural in her breeding behaviouer, talented in the performance of her maternal duties --- trust her. Pick your winners from the healthiest of her offspring. Honor her --- she will honor you --- this pearl of great price THE BROOD BITCH. 

FOR THOSE WHO WANT A WELL TRAINED DOG IN THE FAMILY – SOME TIPS.     

Dog Etiquette 

A WELL-MANNERED dog can be a joy to everyone and since the dog’s place in today’s society is almost that of a member of the family, it behooves the dog owner to teach his pet to behave properly. Good behavior in a dog, as in a child, just doesn’t happen naturally… it’s the result of care, understanding, and training. 

The purpose of this article  is to help you to teach your dog to take his place in your home – to learn the rules of canine good behavior or dog etiquette. This training begins the day you get your dog and will continue for as long as you have him around. 

If the new member of your family is a puppy, your job will be easier in many ways than with an older dog. Still, with a puppy, the first all-important lesson in good manners is housebreaking. 

Your training schedule will be much smoother if you consider a few basic things. First of all, your dog will have to learn a whole new language – yours. He will also have to conform to a new standard of behavior – the family life around him. 

Words, as such, don’t mean a thing to him; a certain sound accompanied by a certain action becomes a command, which must be obeyed. So, use short, simple words, such as NO-SIT-COME-DOWN…praising and rewarding the dog when he does right, scolding when he falls you. That is the basic formula of all training procedures. Apply it with patience, persistence and practice, and you’ll be amazed and pleased with the results. 

We are breaking your dog etiquette-training schedule into four parts, though all lessons have a bearing on each other. They are: House Manners, Out of Doors, basic Obedience, and For Fun. We’ll consider them in that order. 

Always use a kind but firm voice when you are training your dog. Practice these commands demanding obedience without being too loud and too harsh-remember your dog has hearing seven times more acute than you have. 

All training should start with the dog in a sitting position at your left side. This is called the “heel” position and is the first step in getting him under control. Once he’s learned to sit at heel, he’ll begin giving you his attention, and watching to see what’s coming next. 

About the only equipment you’ll need will consist of a chain link-training collar, suitable to the size of your dog, and a leash. Do not use a leash that is too short, one about four feet long is suitable and if too long will be harder for you to handle. 

Training lessons should not be longer than 10 to 15 minutes duration. Two or three 10 to 15 minute lessons daily are better than a one-hour session. Give rests, and always use plenty of praise and encouragement in the training of your dog, even though at times you may have to force him to obey. 

House Manners 

Let us stress here that every dog should have this own bed. If you decide to have him sleep in the house don’t put his bed in the children’s bedroom or your own bedroom. And don’t let him sleep on your bed. Trouble usually results, as you’ll note in later sections. 

Select a corner for his bed, which will be out of the line of family traffic and afford him some privacy. Then let him know it’s his own property. 

GO TO BED. Use the command “bed”. Point to the bed, then take your dog to his bed and make him get in. Have him lie down, and then tell him to “stay” there. After a minute or so, let him come out. Praise him; repeat again and again until he learns to go to his bed on command. 

STAY OFF FURNITURE, and out of wastebaskets and garbage pails. Be consistent and firmly scold the dog every time you catch him doing wrong. 

DON’T STEAL. Some dogs are honest and some are not. Teach yours that the first rule of dog etiquette is not to steal from the table. You can do this by scolding him whenever he shows any interest in food on the table. 

JUMPING ON PEOPLE. This is high on the list of don’ts for dogs as it’s annoying to owners and resented by guests. There are several ways to correct this bad habit. Use one or all methods, just so you get the desired result. You can gently knee him in the chest as he rears up, or scold him with a severe “no!” He must learn to come and quietly greet you or your guests in the proper manner. 

CHEWING THINGS. Dogs chew because they are primarily animals that use their teeth for defense, for tearing their food, and for gnawing bones. They also chew things out of sheer boredom. The answer to the latter is to give the dog more attention…and something to chew on. 

Nylon, plastic, rubber, and other artificial chewing bones are now made. Supply these things and let the dog know they are his. 

Dogs are usually most destructive when the owner is away. Leaving a dog locked in the house is asking for trouble and you should have a fenced back yard for your dog t stay in whilst you are out. A fenced run is the ideal way to keep your dog out of trouble when he is not being supervised and he will quickly learn that this is his area. 

JUMP UP. You should teach your dog to jump on to his grooming table, into the station wagon, and even on to the veterinarian’s table if he’s big enough to do so. You’ll look silly lifting a big dog into a station wagon, or on to the grooming table, and you might also injure your back. 

Start with a small box. Lead your dog to it, and say “up” or “jump up” at the same time gesturing with your right hand, and tugging upward lightly on the leash. Or, with a dog at heel, just walk up to the box so that he has to jump up on it. Each time give him the “jump up” command. 

When you are certain he understands the command, use a higher box. Then practice having him jump up on to the workbench, which may also serve as a grooming bench, yours or your neighbor’s station wagon, or even into a truck. 

SPEAK TO GO OUT and come in. Some dogs seem to do this almost automatically others have to be taught. Put your dog inside the door while you step outside. He’ll want to join you. Open the door slightly. Command “speaks” in an excited voice, or even making a barking noise; anything to get the dog excited. Repeat again and again and all of a sudden, your dog will let out a bark. Instantly open the front door and praise him lavishly. Practice doing this from inside as well as out, so that the dog learns to bark for passages either way. 

HOWLING.  This is one of the most annoying of all dog had habits. It usually occurs with dogs, which have been spoiled, or with inherently shy dogs. 

Spoiled dogs are those which have been allowed to sleep on the beds, in chairs, on master’s lap, etc. are seldom made to obey the rules. 

The firsts step is to make up your own mind to change these bad habits. The most suitable room to use for our first lesson is the laundry. Shut him in and then wait. 

Scold the dog when he howls to get out. Say “No” in a very stern voice. Make him stay for a half-hour, then when he is quiet, praise him and let him out for an hour. Repeat the plan all through the day. Make him sleep in the laundry that night. Scold, and if necessary, punish him if he howls. Whatever you do, don’t give in and let him out while he’s howling or your efforts will be wasted. 

After a few days of patient effort the dog will realize it must stay in and be quiet. 

Next step is to lock the dog in the laundry and then leave the house. But stay close enough to listen. If the dog howls, rush back in, scold, and punish him. Dogs are smart, and so you’ll have to be extremely careful not to tip off your presence to the dog when you stay close enough to listen. If he can sense your nearness, he won’t howl; so you’ll think you have him cured when you really haven’t. 

If next-door neighbors have been complaining about your dog’s howling, then enlist their aid and go to their homes during this training period. If the dog howls, then you must run back home, scold him sternly, and then leave again. You may have to do this many times but your neighbors will appreciate the fact you are trying to improve your dog’s manners for their sakes and undoubtedly will be glad to help you. 

BITING. The first sign that a dog is likely to bite is when he shows his teeth in protest as you take his food or a bone from him, put your hand in his bed, or pulls a burr from his coat. The very first time this happens, slap him upward severely under the chin, while saying “No.” Use a very harsh tone of voice and really mean business. Repeat what caused the protest and the punishment until the dog realizes he must not try to bite or show resentment. When he makes no protest, praise him. 

To make sure he has learned his lesson, put down a dish of Ken’l Meaty kiblets and then take it away from him. Take his toys from him, groom him; look into his mouth; do the things he’s likely to resent. Always correct quickly and firmly and finish each lesson with praise or consoling words to reassure him. 

Out of doors 

STAY IN THE YARD. This is easily taught to the new puppy; is harder to teach to a new dog, which has been in the habit of leaving the yard and roaming the neighborhood. 

Prevention is far better than cure and all dog owners should make their property dog proof before buying their first dog. The law requires all dogs to be kept on their own property and all dog problems arise from dog owners not having made suitable arrangements for keeping their pet under control. A roaming dog is not only a menace, but also will more than likely be killed or injured on the road. Surely a short fence between your house and the side fence is a small cost for saving your dogs life. 

RUNNING AWAY. If, during training for the previous lesson, the dog decides to run away, it will be necessary for you to catch and punish him, then to send him home. However, never call the dog to you and then punish him. This will make him hesitate to come to you the next time you call. Punish him only when you have to go after and catch him. After you have hauled the dog back into your yard, you can praise him, so that he’ll know he’s a good dog when he’s in his own yard. 

EXCESSIVE BARKING. If dogs are of normal temperament, excessive and uncalled-for barking can be the result of boredom. One answer to this is to bring the dog into the house. Highly nervous or excitable dogs should not be left in the yard longer than is required for relief. 

There are a number of things you can and should do to stop unnecessary barking outside. First of all, don’t let it become a habit. Show your displeasure with a harsh “NO” or “QUIET!” and make him quit. Remember to command “NO” or “QUIET” when making corrections. When he’s quiet say “Good Boy” in a praising tone. 

Tying a dog in the yard is conductive to barking. It is much better to fence your yard. Tying a dog in the yard also seems to encourage biting. So avoid this. It’s better to use a wire run if you have to, but don’t leave the dog out on it very long at a time. 

DIGGING HOLES. Dogs often dig holes because of sheer boredom. Occasionally they’ll dig just for exercise, but it all steps from an age-old habit of digging for moles, chip munks, or other game. You can keep your dog from digging again in a hole by placing crumpled-up chicken wire, well pegged down in the hole. You can also fill the hole with large stones which he cannot move. 

The dog will probably dig another hole. But if you repeat the above corrective procedure he’ll soon get discourages. 

Sometimes dogs dig holes in very hot weather in order to lie in the cool ground. When this is the cause, bring the dog into the house. 

MEET THE POSTMAN. An important part of dog etiquette is that properly brought up pups just don’t get the idea that it’s permissible to bite the postman or meter reader. Highly nervous dogs, dogs that are kept tied up for long periods, and basically shy dogs that attack out of fear may attempt to bite these men or other strangers. 

You should introduce your dog to postmen and meter readers. These men should be encouraged to give the dog bits of food and a chance to smell and investigate them thoroughly. Ask them to call the dog by name and greet him with praise, plus tidbits or some of his Ken’l Biscuits each time they come, until they are accepted as friends. 

The food bribes can be eliminated except for an occasional treat once a friendship has been established. It is a good idea to learn when these calls are made and if possible bring the dog into the house ahead of time. You can thus reassure your dog that all is well. 

Basic Obedience 

SIT. Put your dog on a leash and place him at your left side, preferably next to a fence or building. Place your right hand on the dog’s chest pushing upwards and back, at the same time push down on his rump with your left hand and command “Sit!” If he resists, wiggle his rump to get him off balance. Hold him in the sit position repeating, “Sit”. Praise him by voice and petting, let him up and move on a bit, and repeat the lesson. This should be repeated until you go to place the dog in a Sit position and he is already there. Soon he will associate the word and action and sit on command, then sit without command whenever you halt. 

HELL. Hold the end of your leash in your right hand. Use your left hand to grasp the leash approximately half way to the dog’s neck. At all times the leash should be held so that there is a distinct loop between the left hand the dog’s neck. Command “Heel” and walk forward stepping off on the left foot. This will indicate to the dog that when you move the leg nearest to him (the left leg) he is to heel or go with you. If your dog lags behind, use a wrist action to give the dog a firm short jerk to bring him up to you, at the same time command “Heel”. 

Jerk backward if he tries to go ahead of you. Repeat the command “Heel” each time correction is necessary, and give ample praise and encouragement particularly when the dog is in the correct Heel position. Once your dog understands what is required of him for heeling, combine this with your sitting lesson by making the dog sit and heel until he gets the idea of staying as close as practical to your left leg when you walk, and to sit when you halt. 

Some dogs are quite strong and bull-headed. They pull ahead, and even though they choke, they won’t come back to heel. In that case do sudden about turns accompanied by a firm jerk. A jerk can only be achieved when the lead is made to be loose before it is pulled. Your dog should learn this lesson quickly if only to prevent the unpleasantness of the chain suddenly tightening. When the dog is in correct position praise him. 

Walking along a sidewalk, next to a building or kerb, will help teach the dog the proper distance to maintain from your side. Finally, practice with other dogs present so that your dog learns to obey under all conditions and in spite of distractions.  

HEEL OFF LEASH. It is strongly recommended that no training is tried ‘off leash’ until your dog is very advanced in his training. The purpose of the leash and training collar is to control your dog, without them you have lost all authority and will spend your training session yelling at your dog as you try to catch him. 

COME WHEN CALLED. This is the most important of all your lessons, and the most difficult to teach. This is particularly so if you are working with an older dog. The dog knows when he is beyond your reach, so he may decide to disobey. 

First lessons are taught with the use of a 45 to 50-foot rope . Wear gloves to prevent getting rope burns. Stretch the kinks from the rope, then attach it to the dog’s collar. Allow him to drag it until he gets used to it. 

Now, when the dog is going away from you, grab the end of the rope, speak the dog’s name, and command,  “come”. Jerk him to a halt and start pulling him to you. Even though you must force him to come in, compliment him and give him a reward when he reaches you. The reward is plenty of petting and voice praise. 

Now try the lesson in a small-enclosed area when he is free of the rope. Call him. If he ignores you and gallops off, catch him and take him right back to the spot from which he was called. Leave him and then repeat the “come” command. Keep this up until he’ll come to you in this enclosed area, and then try him in the bigger one. Be lavish in your praise each time the dog does come to you on command. 

Another method of teaching a dog to come when called is to go to the side gate and call your dog. When he comes to you, put the lead on him and take him for a short walk. Repeat this exercise often. The dog will soon associate coming to you as a pleasant experience and hence, you have a dog that comes when he is called.

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